Vindication: Cold-hardy Marquette

Past hybrid selections from Smokie Ridge

You all know how passionate and mother-hen protective I am about hybrid grapes. We live in a cold climate with some pretty harsh winters, so it only makes sense to plant and grow vines that can stand up to -30 windchill by hibernating underground like so many vinous groundhogs.

Thus, I was thrilled to read the VQA has accepted Marquette as a legit grape variety. This means growers can sell wine made from this grape in the LCBO and at farmers' markets. WOOT!

What's New: Local Grapes, Cold Climate Success

Going "off-vine" for a few months leaves me woefully clueless on what's new in the world of wine. So it's no surprise that I've only recently heard of (relative) newcomers Stone Crop Acres and Clos du Vully.

Stone Crop Acres Winery and Vineyard is based in Morrisburg, Ontario. Owner and certified sommelier Norene Hyatt-Gervais planted her vines in 2007, laying in cold climate varieties like Marquette, Louise Swenson and Frontenac Gris. Initially, Hyatt-Gervais sold off her fruit to other buyers, but in 2016, she decided it was time to start making her own wine. (Back in the day, her dad was buying grapes for his home brew, which percolated in demi-johns in the basement ... not like what some folks do, with the whole Rubbermaid bins covered in cheesecloth ...)

The first vintages were released this year, just in time for the grand opening in July of the tasting room and retail shop. Four whites and a Nouveau-style red that sold out in a month. Stone Crop's first barrel-aged red, a Frontenac Noir/Cabernet Franc blend, will be the highlight at the winery's Christmas Cheer event, starting this Saturday, December 9.

Vignoble Clos du Vully is run by winemaker and grape grower Jan Daniel-Etter with his partner Anne Grenon. Together they tend five thousand vines of cold-hardy grapes and craft artisanal whites, reds and rosés, both sweet and dry, from their own fruit and from extra procured from growers in Niagara-on-the-Lake. In May 2016, they opened the doors of their barn-turned-tasting room and welcome guests every Saturday and Sunday, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., year-round. Gift baskets, gift certificates and wine (of course!) are all available for purchase.

Need some other ideas for the holidays? Skip the malls and day-trip to some of these local gems for great wine and merrymaking:

Domaine Perrault, Navan - Open Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, 11-5, until December 24. Marilys has got to be one of my favourite rosés; the reds are big, robust and perfect for long winter nights.

Jabulani Vineyard and Winery, Richmond - The winery's annual Christmas event will be held on December 9-10 and 16-17, from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Enjoy mulled wine, hot chocolate and nibbles with a side of live music. All it costs is a donation (either cash or non-perishable food items) to the Richmond Food Bank.

KIN Vineyards, of Carp, Ontario, will be at the Christmas edition of the Ottawa Farmers' Market this year. Find them in the Aberdeen Pavilion at Lansdowne this weekend and next.

Wineau Abroad: Wines from Afar

A few notes on some of the selections my globe-trotting Hubby has brought back for me (us) to enjoy ...

Weingut Familie Pitnauer 2015 Bienenfresser Zweigelt Reserve (Göttlesbrunn, Austria) - "Bienenfresser" is the German name for the European bee-eater, a small, colourful, swallow-like bird, as depicted on the label. Wild nose of cloves, raspberries and a hint of green pepper. Medium-bodied with fairly high acid and tannin levels. The wild fruit carries along the palate, accompanied by smoked meat and peppercorn. The finish, while dry texture-wise, explodes with jammy fruit flavours.


Weingut Okonomierat Rebholz 2015 Riesling Troken (Pfalz, Germany) - Brilliant gold with pale green highlights. Nose and palate tangy with green apple, petrol and lime zest. High acid, bordering on effervescent. Sharp and slightly metallic on the finish, with the fruit coming up a bit short. Biz trip to Berlin, Germany, 2016.

(PS, quick lesson on how to read a German wine label : Ökonomierat = an honour awarded to a deserving agriculturalist; weingut = vineyard property; Pfalz = wine region in Germany; Rebholz = family name of proprietor.)

Cave St-Pierre 2012 Johannisberg de Chamoson (Valais, Switzerland) - Also known as sylvaner, this wine glows with a deep gold colour tinged with a lime-green edge. Redolent with talcum powder, mango, papaya and fresh honey, and a viscous, creamy texture that coats the palate. Best with food, begs for fondue/raclette.

Celliers de Meknes Chateau Roslane 2013 Premier Cru Les Coteaux de l'Atlas (El Hajeb, Morocco) - This was a fantastic find, something that would definitely be worth ordering a case of, if I can find the Canadian distributor. In the glass, a regal garnet/plum colour that is slightly brickish. Overwhelming nose of jam, cherries, cedar, rosemary and pepper, followed by a light-to-medium body and mid-range acid/tannin balance. The exotic spice mix gets some cinnamon added to it, and the tangy fruit rounds out the finish.

Review: Thirsty for more at Soif

Everything at Soif is corked.

No, no, not the WINE. The wine and the food (OMG) are fantastic. I'm talking about the walls. The floors. Some of the tables, parts of the bar, pieces of artwork. All made of cork. A startling revelation as you walk in the door; this is, indeed, a one-of-a-kind place.

Following "The Dream" at Broken Stone

Winemaking is about passion. It has to be. If you're in it for the money or the fame, then you're in the wrong business.

Tim Kuepfer, of Broken Stone Winery, gets that.

And when you taste his wine, that passion shines through.

Hubby Speaks! A Taste of Alan Doyle and City Winery NYC

A few times a year, Hubby gets sent off on business somewhere in the world (while yours truly pulls Single Mom Detail ™ at home). In between never-ending meetings, chats with bigwigs and the like, he ventures out to discover something new about where he is. This is his latest adventure ...

On a recent trip to New York, I made my way over to the trendy SOHO/West Village neighbourhood to visit City Winery NYC, the only fully functioning winery in Manhattan. It also doubles as a restaurant and live music venue. That night’s featured performer was Alan Doyle, former frontman of Great Big Sea, who was touring to promote his recently released solo album So Let's Go. I figured this was as good a place as any to have a full-fledged “New York moment” complete with celebrity cameos, strangers that become part of a one-night entourage, and a bone-deep contentment brought about by great food, great wine and great music.

Wineau Abroad: Manns Wines ... by Kikkoman!

Big reveal time: I don't like sake. I've tried really hard to like it, I've sipped several different kinds, from earthy to sweet to bitter and every flavour profile in between. It just isn't my thing. So when Hubby went to Japan and said he would bring back some wine, I cringed.

Donkey Riding

Look closely at the parking sign outside the LCBO at Rideau and King Edward, and you'll see a small, round sticker affixed to its bottom corner, bearing the image of a smiling donkey.

That critter's name is Cargo, and the company is called BrewDonkey, Ottawa's new beer delivery / brewery tour biz that brings the Valley's best craft beer to thirsty folks all over town.

Night Out for Grown-Ups

I hopped off the bus in the downtown core, bottle in hand. I was on my way to a real, grown-up cocktail party in a trendy Centretown condo with real grown-ups who drink wine and talk about real grown-up stuff (when they aren't talking about their kids.)

Rules were simple: everyone bring a bottle, perhaps something to nosh on, and enjoy! I chose a Peller Estates Iced Cuvee for my charming hostess, a gal who loves her some bubbles. She greeted her guests in the hospitality suite, stylish (as always) in a Mad Men-inspired dress, gave a quick layout of where things were and resumed her welcoming duties while we all got acquainted. I poured myself a glass of Cono Sur rosé sparkling and looked around.

It only took a couple of friendly rounds of getting-to-know-you and Six Degrees of Separation before the conversation and laughter (like the wine) was flowing with ease. Folks crowded around the bar or the snack table, or lounged about on leather settees, or flitted between groups to catch snippets of gossip, the latest on the municipal election, or animated dialogue on 80s music.

Turned out to be a great night of exciting vinous discoveries as well, these two being my top faves:

Castillo de Almansa 2010 Reserva (Spain; $12.95; 13.5% abv) - This was my favourite find. Predominantly Tempranillo blend with some Montastrell and Garnacha thrown in. A wild nose of spicy salumi, tobacco leaf, cigar smoke, peppercorn and blackberry jam. On the palate: dry, with firm tannins and a meaty, chewy mouthfeel. A brambly mixture of raisins and stewed fruit with a dusty finish. Impressive wine and a great value!

Kunde 2012 Sonoma Valley Zinfandel (California; #23.95; 14.5% abv) - Not your typical fruit-bomb zin. The aromas spilling out of the glass brought frying bacon to mind, along with suggestions of green pepper, black peppercorn and ripe black cherry. The fruit comes out on the palate with aggressive sour cherry and spicy pepper. Grippy tannins and a lingering acidity stick around on the long finish.

Sisi's Wine

Photo courtesy of Wikipedia 

Once upon a time, about 130 years ago in Austria, there was a princess. An empress, really. Her name was Elisabeth, but everyone called her Sisi.

What the Truck?!?!

Shut the front door! Wine trucks? I'd heard of food trucks (who hasn't, really, they're everywhere and filled with far more than your traditional chips and hot dogs these days.) But a wine truck? This I had to see.

An Unlikely White

It may take us a while to synchronize our schedules, but we finally got our regular group of wineaux all in one room at Jane's Place for a tasting. The theme for the evening: unusual whites.

The Mimosa Station

Mimosas on arrival? Yes please! Mimosas every morning? Even better!

Thus began my sojourn in Varadero, Cuba. Yeah, we stayed at a resort, didn't really experience the "local culture" or even get to try real Cuban food. But you know what I did get to experience? Relaxation. Indulgence. And lots of mimosas. Happy mummy I is.

Like many other Caribbean destinations (especially those visited in the dead of a profoundly cold winter) Cuba welcomed us with soft sand, swaying palm trees and turquoise waters. We dropped everything in the room, switched into bathing suits and made a mad dash to the beach. The Smurf enjoyed taunting the waves, daring them to tickle her toes. The Doodle was ready to take up surfing lessons. Hubby launched into the first of several sandcastle constructs. And I breathed.

We stayed here, at the Blau. Verdant gardens, massive pool (albeit freezing cold), ample watering holes and feeding troughs. Enough space not to feel crowded, small enough to keep track of the kids. Just right.

The only schedule we kept was set by our internal clocks. Sleep when tired, drink when thirsty (or when the server comes around your side of the pool, whichever comes first) and eat when hungry.

I had read my share of not-so-glowing reviews of the food in Cuba but decided to keep an open mind. I'm an adventurous sort; when I go to another country, I don't expect to find the familiar comforts of home waiting for me. I'm here to experience something different. (If I could only get the Doodle to see things that way. Even the pizza and pasta at the buffet "didn't taste right." But you can bet the ice cream sure did ...)

Cuba is still under embargo with the U.S. and a bunch of other countries, so it's not that simple to get provisions. There isn't a Starbucks doling out half-caf double espresso lattes or a McDonalds down the street. You don't get lemons or strawberries here. There are more goats and horses than cattle, so think before ordering the steak.

I don't know what other people expect under such limitations, but I really enjoyed the food. Fish, chicken and pork were in abundance and well-seasoned. I had plantain, swordfish, kippers, bold Cuban cheese, Spanish tortilla, paella, huevos rancheros. Even a couple of the mysterious "hot dogs" that I didn't want to examine too closely but which were a big hit with the kiddies. And did I mention the mimosas?

Conveniently located right beside a giant bowl of Nutella big enough to do laps in, the mimosa station was stocked every morning with bottles of Spanish cava, jugs of fresh (ish) OJ, and a selection of fruit purées to amp it up a little: guava, mango and passionfruit, if you're so inclined. And I was. Frequently.

Oh, I tried other stuff, too. The odd glass of wine with a meal. Plenty of beer, too, generously topped up in my wedding-souvenir mug by the smiling poolside barkeep. But I preferred the mimosas. Right up to the last second, when we were dashing to catch our bus to the airport. The hostess poured my drink into a plastic cup so I could enjoy it on the road.

I miss those mimosas.

Table 21

Striking decor at Table 21

157 Pitt Street, Cornwall, Ontario

While I generally don't need a special occasion to drink wine, there were plenty to be celebrated this month, starting with Mum's birthday at Table21, a fine dining locale in my hometown of Cornwall, Ontario. (Yes, you read that right - "fine dining" and "Cornwall" in the same sentence.)

Please watch your step going up the 45-degree incline at the entrance. This close to sublime food and wine, you don't want to mess up the evening with a tumble. When our party reached the top, I had to pick my jaw up off the floor, having dropped it there in an astonished gasp. Were we still in Cornwall? Seriously? 

Smokie's Pride

It's early September, and I'm on board a golf cart with Paul Morneault, one set of hands in the close-knit team behind Smokie Ridge. We're taking a drive to what Paul calls "The Magic Corner", where four blocks of vineyards intersect. Swollen clusters of Sabrevois, Louise Swenson, Frontenac Gris and Frontenac Noir grapes dangle amid broad green leaves; harvest isn't too far off.

WBC13: The Wines

Well DUH. It *was* a WINE blogging conference, after all. Here are some of my faves. And before you ask, no you can't get them at the LCBO, more's the pity. (Talk to your MPP about that.)

WBC13: Winemaking with Bees and Mystics

The smooth walls inside the pyramid angled upwards into darkness, lit only by a muted glow that seemed to emanate from the stone itself. Coming in out of the blazing sun was a relief, but as we walked up into this sacred temple, our ahhhhhs faded into reverent silence.

We stepped out of the hallway into a vast room; as our eyes adjusted, we could make out barrels, crates and bottles. A few shafts of sun angled in through narrow slits in the pointed roof, where a massive crystal hung like some mystical, thousand-year-old chandelier.

For most, the air was still and cool. But for others, there was the slightest sense of something else lingering, something that ran cat-pawed across the nape of the neck ...

This is the magic of the Summerhill Pyramid.

WBC13: Lakeside Digs at Manteo Resort

It's rather nerve-wracking to wake up on a plane and see mountains fly past the window, far too close for my comfort. We descended along a narrow path between two hilltops dotted with evergreens and sage, a headwind buffeting the wings with alarming force. I held my breath while the ground rose up to meet us. We bounced onto the runway, I took a deep, cleansing breath, and affirmed I was finally here, in British Columbia.

#indulgePEC: The Art

Yup, there's wine and food a-plenty in the County. When you've had your fill of both (or just need a moment to digest before the next round, as we were doing on our tour) there are countless art studios, galleries and shops to visit along the Arts Trail.

The County is home to a close-knit community of visual, media and craft artists, many of them working out of their own homes or offering tours of their studios.

I'll let the photos speak for themselves ...

(PS - that pretty, shiny thing right there? It's not even supposed to be art. It's a colour tester from Mark Armstrong's workshop. A piece knocked off the end of a stick, likely destined for the recycle bin. But I love it.)

#indulgePEC: The Place

In the first year of #indulgePEC, small knots (herds? bunches? flocks?) of bloggers were sent to different B&Bs throughout the county. This time around, the whole lot of us ruled the roost at Angeline's Bloomfield Inn.