Vindication: Cold-hardy Marquette

Past hybrid selections from Smokie Ridge

You all know how passionate and mother-hen protective I am about hybrid grapes. We live in a cold climate with some pretty harsh winters, so it only makes sense to plant and grow vines that can stand up to -30 windchill by hibernating underground like so many vinous groundhogs.

Thus, I was thrilled to read the VQA has accepted Marquette as a legit grape variety. This means growers can sell wine made from this grape in the LCBO and at farmers' markets. WOOT!

Chardonnay Day for the ABC type: Trialto and 10Fourteen

It's #ChardDay in the Twitterverse, but as you know, I'm more of an anything-but-chardonnay kinda gal. I'll drink it, sure, but it's got to be a) steel-fermented, unoaked or 'inox'; b) from a cooler climate; or c) free, with a side of mind-blowingly good food and shared in the company of good tweeps.

Lucky me, I got friends in great places (thank you, Shawn!)

A License to Craft

Elena Galey-Pride, host of Winestains, came up with this brilliant concept recently: 5H Giving. Homemade, Handmade, Healthy, Helpful, from Here. The object is to give from at least one (preferably more, ideally all) categories to benefit one's community, the environment, those in need, local producers, etc.

Like I said, it's brilliant. (I particularly like that the icon for the "from Here" category on Elena's Facebook page is a pair of wine bottles.) So I've been doing my part to "5H"-up my shopping list, picking up jewelry from VersaTile Design, creating photo memory books for family and buying local foodstuffs, including as much from-here beer and Ontario wine as I can fit in my trunk.

Talk about it, buy it, drink it: Go Local

LCBO's annual GoLocal campaign is in full swing, and I was surprised, and quite pleased, to see some newcomers and fresh rebranding in the shop's latest flyer. When and where had all these intriguing wineries popped up? Vinology? O'Leary? G.Marquis? More importantly, have I been living under the proverbial rock and missing all the fun?

Wine Wednesday: Free My Grapes

The big deal on Twitter tonight is Bill C-311. For those of you who aren't in the know (what rock are you living under?) this bill, introduced by Okanagan MP Dan Albas, will make it legal for wine to cross provincial borders. Personal exemptions will be set for individuals bringing in wine for their own consumption, and it will be easier for wineries to ship direct to customers. Common sense, n'est-ce pas?

(Rather belated) Wordless Wine Wednesday

A wine by many other names ...

Here are a few labels I spotted in the LCBO's "Go Local" display this week. All of them are from established wineries, just with a different look and feel. Something fresh to catch the eye of passers-by (like me).

My kind of Wish Book

Traditional snail-mail may be a dying art, but I do enjoy getting wine magazines and catalogues in my mailbox every once in a while.

Cross-border shopping - now it's legal?

This just in (courtesy of Free My Grapes on Twitter): In June 2011, LCBO adopted a policy clarifying that it is legal for individuals to bring wines, spirits and beer into Ontario on their person from other Canadian provinces or territories, as long as it is for personal consumption.

Established under the Liquor Control Act, the policy allows Ontarians of legal drinking age to bring up to 3L of spirits, 9L of wine and 24.6L of beer from other provinces and territories. Most provinces and territories have comparable provisions, though some have importation limits that are lower than Ontario.

The new policy should dispel any confusion that this practice is not allowed.

(Yeah, but you still can't have wine shipped in, nor can you sign up for out-of-province wine clubs. Miles to go before you sleep, LCBO ...)

End of the week

It's Friday. While I'd love to be on a patio somewhere, sipping a cool glass of sauvignon blanc - or maybe a rosé - there's work to be done before I can check out for the weekend. So I'm making do with a mini cheese plate I concocted at home.

But can you get it at the LCBO?

That's the question of the day whenever I attend wine shows in town. It's all well and good to try a phenomenal bottle, but it's a real heart breaker to find out I can't get it (without ordering a full case, paying for shipping, taxes and duty, all while probably breaking one cross-border shopping law or another.)

Ah, les Belges ...

Slow day, birthday, plus 12 degrees outside ... that calls for a bit of a party, methinks. A mid-day beer tasting with a flight of authentic Belgian beers fits the bill. (Speaking of which, can you really call that a 'flight' the same way you would with wine? Maybe I need to take that beer course they have at Algonquin ...)

Lemme tell you, les Belges know their beer. (For the record, Stella to them is like Molson Canadian to us ... mass-produced, watery, cheap. Yet when we drink it on this side of the ocean, we consider it "classy". Go figure.)

Obsessed much?

This was me at the LCBO on Saturday: "What do you MEAN there isn't any Obsession??" Cue the gasp, as Mitchell would say ...

Take it back

So the LCBO just announced (Sept 30) that its return policy has changed. Now, consumers have only 30 days to bring back their bottles, and the return must be accompanied by a receipt.

Beppi's Best Under $20 ... and mine, too

The new year tends to be the time for lists: top ten lists, greatest moment lists, checklists, resolution lists. I swore I wasn't going to buckle and do a wine-themed list of my own, and have managed to stick by that so far. But I got inspired by Beppi Crosariol’s “20 Go-To Wines” list in last week's Globe and Mail, particularly when I saw a few of my own favourites on there.

Louis Jadot — I didn’t drink much French wine until after I met Hubby; it was at one of his family gatherings where I first tried Louis Jadot (with subsequent in-class tastings). I’m of the “Anything But Chardonnay” camp, but I really liked the way the Burgundy refreshed my palate – more fruit than oak, less manipulated than the big Californian versions of Chardonnay.

Gabbiano Chianti — A simple, straightforward version of sangiovese that makes for a great pizza and burger wine. I save the high-end Brolio Chianti for guests, but the Gabbiano is worth stocking for mid-week spaghetti nights. Same goes for the Gabbiano Pinot Grigio – nice aromas, balance and acid, for a good price: $12.95.

Cave Spring Riesling simply can’t be beat. This is their signature varietal, and it’s stellar every year. I don’t have nearly enough of the stuff in my own cellar; it’s high time I remedied that.

So that inevitably led to the creation of my own fave under-$20 selections. Here they are, in no particular order, and unless otherwise noted, all items are available at the LCBO.

Chardonnay
Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate Proprietor’s Grand Reserve Estate Chardonnay (BC VQA, $19.95) - Creamy texture and weight, lots of tropical fruit, without the overpowering oak. Perfect for turkey with all the trimmings. Or next-day croissant-wiches with turkey leftovers, Brie and cranberry.

Peninsula Ridge Inox Chardonnay (Niagara VQA, $12.95) - "Inox" meaning fermented in stainless steel tanks. You get all of the fruit and none of the wood. Good with creamy pasta, beer-can chicken, and the aforementioned turkey dinner.

Sauvignon Blanc
Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc (New Zealand, $18.95) - Crisp, sharp, bordering on lemon-fresh pucker-worthy. Versatile with a lot of dishes, especially seafood.

Stoneleigh Sauvignon Blanc (New Zealand, $16.95) - This one is over-the-top citrus, racy and tantalizing. I find it's best on its own, but with raw oysters it's divine.

Creekside Estates Sauvignon Blanc (Niagara VQA, $13.95, or $18.95 for the reserve) - On our first trip to Niagara, this was the best find. More mineral and acidic than citrusy. We learned (the hard way) about the effects of different vintages from Creekside, when we returned the next year and found the wine wasn't anything like the previous year's. Still good, though.

Pinot Gris/Grigio
Giovello Pinot Grigio (Italy, $12.95) - I'll be honest, it's the bottle that first caught my eye: deep, sapphire blue, with a delicate dragonfly gracing the front. Lovely, fragrant balance of floral and fruit, easy-drinking sipper.

Gabbiano Pinot Grigio (Italy, $12.95) - Same boat as the maker's Chianti: pleasant, unfettered, no fuss-no muss kind of wine.

Other whites and blends
Ruffino Orvieto Classico (Italy, $11.95) - This would be the one I brought all the way home from Orvieto itself, only to find the LCBO stocked the exact same thing. D'OH! Best summertime wine for poolside lounging at Grammy's house. (She's been a big fan of the Orvieto since my trip to Italy.)

Ironstone Vineyards Obsession Symphony (California, $14.95) - It's a fast seller at the liquor store, so jump all over it if you find some in stock. Kinduv like a viognier, with its heady perfume and fruity sweetness, but with plenty of solid acidity. Works with a variety of foods, from creamy pasta to grilled chicken; faboo with seafood.

Strewn Gewurztraminer-Riesling (Niagara VQA, $11.95) - Easily the best choice EVER for spicy foods. All the best parts of both varietals stand up beautifully to Thai, Vietnamese, Indian, Szechuan and other dishes of the same ilk.

Dopff & Irion Gewurztraminer (France, $15.95) - Classic Alsatian Gewurz, rating a 2 on the sugar scale. intense, pungent aromas of orange blossom, followed by sweet honey with mint, perhaps a bit of cilantro; apricots on the long, acidic finish.

Rosé
Malivoire Ladybug Rosé (Niagara VQA, $15.95) - Despite the irony of having a ladybug as its mascot (since the critter gives off a nasty taste when crushed with the grapes) this has got to be one of the *the* best rosés I've ever had. Slightly sweet, hints of rosewater and strawberries, refreshing for summertime and tapas on the deck.

Reds
Sileni Cellar Selection Pinot Noir (New Zealand, $16.95) - None of the mushroom/earthy musk of typical p. noirs, this one is all about delicate fruit and a soft, velvety texture.

Chateau des Charmes Gamay Noir ‘Droit’ (Niagara VQA, $16.95) - For the dark-meat eaters at Thanksgiving and Christmas, this is *the* wine to drink.

Maleta Grape Brain Cabernets (Niagara VQA, $15.95 at winery) - Shame the LCBO decided to stop carrying this all-purpose crowd pleaser. Another good pizza-or-burgers wine that also stands well on its own.

Henry of Pelham Baco Noir (Niagara VQA, $13.95) - This multi-award-winning baco is pure Canadian pride in a bottle. Berry and plum with stiff tannins and a strong thread of tobacco and coffee. Delicious with a wide variety of meat-based dishes.

Argento Malbec (Argentina, $9.95, or $12.95 for the reserve) - For Fuzion fans going into withdrawal as you wait for the next cases to arrive, give this a try. The sweetness is a little toned down in comparison, but ripe aromas of plums, cherries and an undercurrent of tobacco make it a winner.

Errazuriz Max Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Chile, $17.95) - Big, bold, tannic, chewy, full of fruit that explodes in your mouth. Great with all manner of steaks, roasts and other beefy bits.

Sweets n' Sparklers
Poema Cava Brut (Spain, $15.95) - Pale straw sparkler with yeast, apple, pear and floral notes on the nose. Light acid, medium weight, with a creamy, dry mouthfeel and a balanced finish.

Huff Estates First Frost Vidal (Prince Edward County VQA, $19.95) - Fantastic after-dinner sipper, or mix it with a bit of club soda or sparkling mineral water for a spritzer. Better match with foie gras than Sauternes.

(Editor's note: Special thanks to Hubby for helping me compile this list; I don't think I would have made it past five, the way my memory's been lately. Chalk it up to pregnancy brain.)

Ya gotta keep 'em separated

So here's me strolling in to the LCBO and poking around in the Ontario section, looking for a few bottles to bring to Thanksgiving dinner on Sunday. I don't know if you've seen them, but the "Cellared in Canada" signs are now lettered in white on a bright red background. Kinda hard to miss, so I'll give them props for that.

Then I see a "VQA" sign done up in the same white-on-red motif. Over a shelf that *maybe* has a dozen bottles of true VQA, but is mostly stocked with Maria Christina wine-in-a-box and other similar CIC aberrations. WTF???? Is it so hard for LCBO staff to keep the two apart? And I'm not making mountains out of molehills, here. This wasn't just a case of the VQA and CIC sections being side-by-side, no, we're talking completely non-VQA, international blends taking up precious real estate under the VQA banner.

No wonder the public is so confused.

On the bright side of things, MP Kim Craitor sent an open letter to Ted McKeen, Ontario Minister for Consumer Services, calling for changes to government policy regarding the province's wine industry. The letter addresses everything from the CIC issue to the over 9,000 tonnes of local fruit that will likely remain unsold at the end of this harvest. Way to go, Craitor.

And in response to public outcry, Hillary Dawson, president of the Wine Council of Ontario, has been inviting members of the industry and the media to join the Council's Industry Working Group on Label Clarity. (Mind you, I *still* haven't received MY invite.)

Stellar stuff at this Saturday's release

Oh boysie-oysie, two of my fave wines are coming out at this Saturday's Vintages release (September 26). Grab your reusable bottle bags and the credit card, let's go shopping!

Ironstone Vineyards Obsession 2007 Symphony (California, $14.95) - My highlight at the 2009 California Wine Fair, and an awesome value for a wine so replete with sensual aromas, it'll give your nose an orgasm.

Huff Estates 2007 First Frost Vidal - I'm so glad to see this is finally being showcased at the LCBO. You'll remember the mind-blowing experience I had at Domus when this wine was paired with seared foie gras. It also makes for a peachy, sweet mix for summer spritzers on the deck. I don't normally like to abuse wine in that manner, but the guests we had over were big fans of spritzers, so I decided to whip up a batch. Didn't it just go down like buttah? Fill half your glass with the wine, and half with club soda, add some slices of lemon and lime, and voilà, Bob's your uncle and Fanny's your aunt.

PS - The previous release saw the arrival of Le Clos Jordanne's 2007 Talon Ridge Pinot Noir. Go pick up a couple of bottles before they all disappear. If the '07 vintage turns out to be as stellar as everyone is saying it is, then this will be a spectacular wine. Is it 2012 yet???

My Jesus Year

Over a late, candlelit dinner of fish fillets italiano and a pinot grigio from the latest Vintages release, Hubby and I clinked glasses and toasted my 33rd birthday. "To my Jesus year," I proclaimed. Hubby elegantly followed up with, "May it go better for you than it did for Him." (We're both going straight to hell, as you can see. And I'm going to bet all they serve is Cellared in Canada plonk and Baby Duck. Egads!)

I don't know if I subscribe to the notion of 33 being a make-it-or-break-it year, but I do think it's going to be a good one. When I hit 30, I was filled with the excitement of being at the brink of something spectacular. I was past the university years and early career fumblings, I had a more focused vision of what I wanted to do with my life, and I had the maturity (ha!) of being old enough to know better, but still young enough to get away with it. (Tee hee!)

Now I've got a few solid writing gigs under my belt, have been trying some pretty amazing (and amazingly awful) wines along the way, and getting to blog about it. Life is good.


My loved ones showered me with gifts and good wishes, among them a 2007 Chardonnay from See Ya Later Ranch and a spree card from the LCBO (with which I may pick up an Osoyoos Larose Le Grand Vin 2005, or perhaps a Clos Jordanne or two ... decisions, decisions!) I also got a card from my colleagues: "What wine goes well with birthday cake? LOTS OF IT." So true. The grandest gift of the day was from a dear friend; she gave birth to her daughter this morning. A brand new baby, on my birthday!

Thank you, everyone, for setting my Jesus Year in motion!

Help a grapegrower this weekend - Buy Local!

The fight against the LCBO's practice of selling "Cellared in Canada" wines continues. Over the course of the long weekend, consumers are being urged to only buy wines that carry the VQA symbol, ensuring that local grapegrowers and winemakers get the support they deserve. Better yet, if you're anywhere near wine country over the weekend, stop by and pick up a few bottles directly from the makers themselves. Support your local growers and say NO to Cellared in Canada!

A face that makes me think of vinegar

You'll recognize the face from the salad dressing aisle of your local grocery store. Paul Newman (rest his soul) on the label, lending his fame to a line of organic vinaigrettes ... and frozen pizzas, spaghetti sauce, salsa and the like. Now it's on a bottle of wine.

Remember that scene in Ratatouille when Chef Skinner is scheming about his line of frozen food products sporting Gusteau's likeness? ("Gusteau's already has a face, and it's fat and lovable and familiar. And it sells burritos! Millions and millions of burritos!") That's what comes to mind when I see this:

I'll give them credit for being honest: the Newman's Own Foundation motto, "Shameless exploitation in pursuit of the common good", is right there in bold letters at the top of their Web page. No surprises here. And the concept behind their products - organic goods, with all the proceeds going to charity, some $250-plus million thus far - is laudable. So why mess with a good thing? I've tried the dressings; they're pretty good.

But I'm not sure I can wrap my head around a Newman's Own wine. I see that face, I think of vinegar. I think of mass-produced, factory-made and high in sodium. Do I want that in a wine? Alice Feiring (whose book, How I Saved the World from Parkerization, I'm still busting a gut over) had a scathing review of the wines on her blog. Elsewhere in the winosphere, it's become the butt of many jokes and ridiculed in articles bearing heavily clichéd titles. Doesn't exactly instill confidence.

This Saturday's Vintages release includes Newman's Own 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon. (It also has a bunch of really worthwhile items for purchases, including the Ravenswood Old Vines 2006 Lodi Zinfandel I fell in love with at the California Wine Show.) Will I be buying any? Doubt it. But since you can't judge a wine by its label, if it shows up on my doorstep, I'll give it the benefit of the doubt.

Shopping List VS Bucket List

I just finished reading 1001 Wines You Must Taste Before You Die (2008, edited by Neil Beckett, with a foreword by Hugh Johnson). Heavy sucker, it was - good for the weightlifting portion of my at-home workout. Also a fascinating read. You want a wine lover's Bucket List? This is an excellent reference point.

Flipping through the pages, I found a lot of the usual suspects: Pétrus, Margaux, Lafite-Rothschild, Latour, Haut-Brion ... wines I couldn't even afford to look at from behind bullet-proof glass, let alone drink. But I was happy to see many wines I've tried - at least, the same varietal and winemaker - made the "been there, done that" cut: Bonny Doon Le Cigare Blanc; Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc; Inniskillin Vidal Icewine; Eileen Hardy Shiraz; JJ Prum Riesling; Craggy Range Gimblett Gravels Merlot; Ravenswood Zinfandel; Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape; Williams and Humbert sherry; and sparkling wines from Domaine Chandon and Gloria Ferrer. And lo and behold, isn't one of my own cellar items on the list? A Chateau Nairac 2001 Barsac, given to me by Hubby as a Christmas gift a few years back.

(You'll note the sole Canadian reference - Inniskillin and Mission Hill were the only two entries for Canada in the whole book, and both of them were for icewine. Sad, really.)

While daydreaming is nice, practicality and financial feasibility are what get you through the day-to-day. My shopping list over on Wine Align is pretty full right now, given that I need to prepare myself for the looming LCBO strike that may or may not interrupt my summer. Perish the thought ...